the road to druskininkai

grave

angel in cemetary

fountain

ledai (ice cream)

Outside of Vilnius is a lush, green time warp.  Trees stretch their topmost branches so high it strains the neck to look.  The local flora is, for the most part, unkempt.  There are some treeless patches of land that seem a bit unnatural, and I am told it is this way because of soviet abuses of the land.  Many patches of forest were chopped down and sent back to Russia for lumber.  Despite this, Lithuania remains a dense forest country.  Driving out to the country we pass tiny shanty-towns and farmlands in varying states of neglect.  Some homes seem to be held together by used band-aids and chewed bubblegum.  My first car, a tri-colored ‘86 Buick Century with unmatched quarter-panel and fender, was far more presentable than some of these homes.  We occasionally see people outside carrying logs, or tending to fields (more scarf-headed old ladies, or shirtless young men in dirty jeans).  It seems so destitute…until I notice that there actually are some nice houses nestled into these impoverished little villages. 

 

It is bizarre!  We see clusters of decayed wooden shacks maybe half a km from the highway, with one or two random, freshly painted two-story family homes prominently popping out of the mire.  How do they all co-exist?  It has been suggested to me that it is a cultural variance.  Americans are extremely classist.  Carmela Soprano proves this accusation to be substantial.  Lithuanian culture, at least the old world Lithuanians, place less value in vanity and more in consistency.  Maybe the people in the shacks are gnarled toothless old men and scarf-headed old frumps aging and decaying with and within the walls of their homes.  Maybe they are meant to die where they have lived, and soon after their children or grandchildren can raze the dilapidated shacks and build sturdy new homes to run-down over the course of a lifetime.  I know it sounds so lame on the surface, but if you consider the strong pagan attachment these people maintain with the land it’s quite romantic.  And it makes sense. 

 

We pass many of these rough villages, some are big and some are just a cluster of a few houses.  We see some fat cows munching on grass on the side of the road every now and then.  They appear very healthy.  Every dozen or so km we pass people selling fresh picked berries or watermelon on the side of the road.  Sometimes these fruits come straight from the forest where they grow wild.  We didn’t stop for any because we were in a rush to catch up with another party almost 2 hours ahead of us.  I regret not stopping!  Just writing about them now makes me wonder how sweet and juicy they must have been.  We’ll have another chance soon, and next time I will NOT hesitate!

 

We finally arrive at Druskininkai about 2.5 hours later.  Druskininkai is a resort town gathered around a lake that is fabled to have mystical healing powers.  We see disabled children in wheelchairs everywhere.  There is also an indoor water park here.  Lithuania is freezing and dark for most of the year so I imagine this park is a major draw all year long.  There are hotels everywhere, and some small Victorian-ish beach-type houses here and there.  My guess is that real estate here is through the roof for local standards.  Driving through some of the residential streets I am reminded of Peter Jackson’s Shire in ‘Lord of the Rings.  Seriously.  And the homes, as well as the properties they sit on, are small.  I’m surprised at this because the average Lithuanian is so big and tall!  I guess they don’t need much space to feel comfortable. 

 

The lake is beautiful and the park around it is well preserved.  We find a cemetery just over the lake and we notice there are all sorts of names here: Russian, Polish, Lithuanian, German…apparently this part of Lithuania has not always been a part of Lithuania.  In fact, most of the country’s borders have evolved and devolved greatly throughout the last 2000 years.  They’ve got a lot of good fight in them, these people.

 

The less residential, more hotel/touristy areas are less than manicured, although the effort is definitely present.  We see more of the decayed soviet style architecture and some walkways that look like they’ve survived the apocalypse.  The flowerbeds have been tended to but that must be all the city paid for.  Or perhaps that’s all the seasons allow considering the country is bathed in freezing rain and snow and darkness for most of the year.  Or perhaps outdoor maintenance here is a battle clearly overcome by the elements. 

 

Unfortunately, we did not explore the water park.  Another regret!  From the looks of it I imagine it must be ridiculous fun.