Uzupis, the artists’ sovereign state

After two weeks in the monastery across the street from the Presidential Palace, we took a rather posh apartment in the unique and quiet Uzupis neighborhood.  Uzupis is to Vilnius what Brooklyn is to NYC.  It is bohemian, and fun and it has a greater sense of community.  It is also on the other side of the river Vilnia.  This community is largely made up of art students, poets, film makers and writers such as Aiste Ptakauske.

 

On either end of Uzupis is a sign that states its independence with pride.  One such sign can be found just across the river from the Uzupio Kavine, which is delightfully situated on the river beside the bridge.  This is a fabulous place to languish with a cool beer on a warm summer day.  I don’t recommend the food here, as it is overpriced and undercooked.  At the back corner table on the outdoor deck you will find a pair of very worn slippers nailed to the floorboards.  A local poet has claimed the spot as his own.

 Uzupio Kavine

The bridge beside the Uzupio Kavine, as well as three other bridges in Uzupis, is covered in padlocks and we assume that the river bottom is covered in small keys.  On any weekend in June you will find a cavalcade of wedding parties on these bridges ceremoniously placing engraved locks here and throwing their keys into the river.  Not for nothing, but the river makes a nice backdrop for photos, too.

A 5 minute walk down this road, Uzupio Gatve, you will find the center of town – the Angel.  This statue is a recent addition to the environment but has quickly become a central theme to surrounding stores and a well-known landmark.  At the corner here you will also find the local hang, a hipster pizza joint, beside which is hung the Uzupio Constitution.  Here the intentions, pursuits and desires of the locals are clearly stated, such as: everyone has the right to love, be idle and care for a cat.  You know, the basics.  

 

On the river is the Vilnius Academy of Art.  There are several aged learning institutions in this ancient city, but none quite as fun and cheeky as the art school.  The reeds in the river at this spot grow insanely long and undulate as if animated beneath the water.  As you walk around the grounds you will find young students napping at the banks, likely lost in a flow of inspiration.

 

Uzupis is a 15 minute walk from the foot of Pilies Gatve and is a great afternoon tour for visitors.  Bring beer money and your sense of humor.  Enjoy!

 

creepy vilnius

park across from KGB museum on Gedimino Pr.

Across the street from the former site of a huge Lenin statue is perhaps the creepiest place in all of Vilnius.  As disturbing as it is, I would still say it is a top 3 ‘must see’ in this city.  It is the KGB museum, and it is housed within the former KGB headquarters from the days of Soviet occupation.  In the basement of the building you will find actual prisoner cells and guards’ stations, most of which remain completely intact.  Some of the rooms have been recreated, but the feeling of doom and desperation remains stagnant in the air.

 basement of old KGB prison, cells on either side

When you reach the bottom of the stairs, to your left you see two small closets where detainees are initially held.  Captives were sometimes held in here for many hours.  You can stand inside and close the door.  It is a tight squeeze and there is no ventilation.  A few steps down the hall you will find the guards’ office where prisoners’ information was registered and an old red phone in the corner would ring occasionally with instructions from higher ups.  Some original uniforms hang on the wall. Across from them is a noble painting of Stalin.  Across from this room is the strip search room where prisoners were searched very thoroughly and sometimes interrogated for extended periods.  They would hold some prisoners for days before contacting their family.

 holding cell

guards' room with original KGB officer uniforms

The worst of the rooms are towards the end of the hall, like the padded cell and the torture rooms.  The padded cell was meant for prisoners who had lost their minds after constant abuse and interrogation.  They were placed in straight jackets then (it is assumed) beaten.  The padding was there so that no one could hear the screaming.  At the end of the hall are the ice rooms.  A small pedestal stands in the center of the room just about 6 inches from the ground.  Prisoners, male and female, were stripped down nude then forced to stand on this pedestal for endless hours.  The floor would be covered in freezing water.   

padded cell and straight jacket

 water torture room

While all of this is quite sobering and scary, the worst part of the museum is in an adjacent building.  It is called the execution chamber.  Hundreds of people were brought into this room to meet their death then have their bodies left to rot like rubbish.  The original floor has been preserved by a glass cover that sits about 2 feet over it.  Guests can see some remaining items, like a pair of shoes or broken glasses, that were left behind.  It is beyond quiet in this room, it is a vacuum of sound. Photographs of the victims line the walls so that everyone in the world who dares pass through this place will know what happened to them.  You will leave this room a bit altered, I must warn you. 

 skull of a resistance fighter

Upstairs you will find some more artifacts and clever, impacting exhibits using these perfectly preserved articles.  Several rooms manifest different eras and phases of the occupation.

 children's memorial drawings line the outside wall

Entrance for adults is around $2 USD.