Vilniaus Gatve
Dominiku Gatve
somewhere in Senamiestis (old town)
Vilnius airport is a cross between a high school cafeteria and the aerospace museum in DC. It is small. It is spare. It is a redecorated Soviet era facility in appearance even if it was built long after the occupation ended. As I waited for our luggage on the carousel with the handful of other tourists and natives and relatives, I noticed the sullen faced security people watching us gather our many pieces. We are here to stay for a very long time. Not visa long, but long. They watched us and passively asked a few questions and then we walked right out the door. Didn't even need our passports!
Outside the air was unexpectedly chilly and thick with cigarette smoke. Are you surprised smoking is still fashionable in post communist Eastern Europe? Could it possibly happen any other way? We packed for summer and now I'm feeling that twist in my gut, the 'I told you so' feeling, meaning I knew this was going to suck and I've completely idealized the shit out of this trip. Weather dot com can eat me.
The drive into Vilnius proper is short and we pass through some parts of town that still scream of Soviet era. The boxy, grey buildings with laundry lines full of grey hued clothing hang off every terrace. I imagine it this way 20+ years ago. Squat, bulky old ladies with scarves on their heads tote around groceries while ashen, toothless men amble down the street. It's a Saturday. Maybe it's a vodka swagger?
I felt this way last time I was here - desperate to turn around immediately. This ride leaves me feeling like anyone who wants to live here is either suicidal, dumb or strung out. The air is thick and bitter. It suffocates you even with all the windows rolled up tight.
But it changes.
Once you get into the heart of Vilnius you see cobble stone streets, ancient architecture and colorfully dressed students. Ah, Europe! I knew I'd find you here! Vilnius is very old. I think maybe it feels even older than Paris in some sections.( I've never been to Rome but I imagine it would feel oldest of all European cities). Vilnius is beautiful in it's own unique way. The Soviet fiasco is always here whether it taints the picture perfect streets with it's neglected grey drab coloring or with it's one lonely box building on a precious street of classical renovations. It's always lurking. Always sneaking past the filter to remind you of it's frightening power.
At one time I think these streets were empty and dark. Now they are filled with tourists and brightly colored umbrellas proudly naming local beers while people sit idly drinking them at sidewalk tables beneath. Shops beckon you in to peruse the local amber jewelry and euro fashions. And it's very familiar in some places. You can buy from Puma and Zara and Apple as if it were NYC. Consumerist comfort. Bet they didn't have that back in the 80's.
We are staying in the guest houses at the city convent. I love this because lithuania was the very last country in europe to accept Jesus Christ as it's lord and savior. These people were infamously belligerent heathens for centuries. They severed missionaries' heads and returned them without their bodies. They told the pope to sit and spin. They continued worshipping their pagan gods well into the dark ages and they were constantly battling their christian neighbors. It's all quite macho and badass and I'd be lying If I said it didn't turn me on a little.
The irony is that these people would eventually lose their right to even be reluctant Christians during the Soviet occupation. There is a theme of crosses, mostly wooden and not always bearing a stigmatafied Jesus, all over the city and the country. Not Latin style crosses with intricate designs and carved features but austere dark wooden crosses. I can picture the scarved old ladies dragging them home on their gnarled shoulders along with their groceries.
Yet there remains a distinct loyalty to the native gods. They still celebrate the equinox in this country as they did many centuries ago. And the days don't end this time of year. It is the first week of June and true night doesn't fall until well after 1am. Twilight goes on for hours while the sky's seductive palette teases us with nightfall. Takes some getting used to but it's exciting to experience it.
Outside the air was unexpectedly chilly and thick with cigarette smoke. Are you surprised smoking is still fashionable in post communist Eastern Europe? Could it possibly happen any other way? We packed for summer and now I'm feeling that twist in my gut, the 'I told you so' feeling, meaning I knew this was going to suck and I've completely idealized the shit out of this trip. Weather dot com can eat me.
The drive into Vilnius proper is short and we pass through some parts of town that still scream of Soviet era. The boxy, grey buildings with laundry lines full of grey hued clothing hang off every terrace. I imagine it this way 20+ years ago. Squat, bulky old ladies with scarves on their heads tote around groceries while ashen, toothless men amble down the street. It's a Saturday. Maybe it's a vodka swagger?
I felt this way last time I was here - desperate to turn around immediately. This ride leaves me feeling like anyone who wants to live here is either suicidal, dumb or strung out. The air is thick and bitter. It suffocates you even with all the windows rolled up tight.
But it changes.
Once you get into the heart of Vilnius you see cobble stone streets, ancient architecture and colorfully dressed students. Ah, Europe! I knew I'd find you here! Vilnius is very old. I think maybe it feels even older than Paris in some sections.( I've never been to Rome but I imagine it would feel oldest of all European cities). Vilnius is beautiful in it's own unique way. The Soviet fiasco is always here whether it taints the picture perfect streets with it's neglected grey drab coloring or with it's one lonely box building on a precious street of classical renovations. It's always lurking. Always sneaking past the filter to remind you of it's frightening power.
At one time I think these streets were empty and dark. Now they are filled with tourists and brightly colored umbrellas proudly naming local beers while people sit idly drinking them at sidewalk tables beneath. Shops beckon you in to peruse the local amber jewelry and euro fashions. And it's very familiar in some places. You can buy from Puma and Zara and Apple as if it were NYC. Consumerist comfort. Bet they didn't have that back in the 80's.
We are staying in the guest houses at the city convent. I love this because lithuania was the very last country in europe to accept Jesus Christ as it's lord and savior. These people were infamously belligerent heathens for centuries. They severed missionaries' heads and returned them without their bodies. They told the pope to sit and spin. They continued worshipping their pagan gods well into the dark ages and they were constantly battling their christian neighbors. It's all quite macho and badass and I'd be lying If I said it didn't turn me on a little.
The irony is that these people would eventually lose their right to even be reluctant Christians during the Soviet occupation. There is a theme of crosses, mostly wooden and not always bearing a stigmatafied Jesus, all over the city and the country. Not Latin style crosses with intricate designs and carved features but austere dark wooden crosses. I can picture the scarved old ladies dragging them home on their gnarled shoulders along with their groceries.
Yet there remains a distinct loyalty to the native gods. They still celebrate the equinox in this country as they did many centuries ago. And the days don't end this time of year. It is the first week of June and true night doesn't fall until well after 1am. Twilight goes on for hours while the sky's seductive palette teases us with nightfall. Takes some getting used to but it's exciting to experience it.
digging it... your juxtapositions of view has begun to tell quite a tale... keep it coming!
ReplyDeleteHi Bink and all srougini!
I can't stop reading. more . more!
ReplyDeletehello gorgeous. this is awesome. you are an amazing writer. i am dying for more about the fashion! happy travels... erin.
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