kernave

ancient hills at Kernave

About an hour outside Vilnius to the north is any history nerd’s delight – Kernave.  This is a real archeological site and museum and cultural reserve where layers of history have been uncovered.  Kernave is famous for it’s manmade hills, which where at one time used as a vantage point to see approaching invaders.  Within the hills are relics and evidence of a settlements as old as the 5^th century BC.  That is pretty damn old, no?  

Museum and Cultural Reserve at Kernave

 

Kernave is also the site of one of the biggest solstice parties in Lithunania.  Hundreds of sun-crazed Lithuanians gather here to sing ancient songs and dance ancient dances on the longest day of the year.  No, it is not a rave.  They are not dropping ecstasy and playing with glow sticks.  It is a pagan ritual, and like many ancient practices, the Lithuanians are keeping this ritual celebration alive with folk music, ancient villager dances and songs. 

 

When you pull up to the parking lot, you see some new-ish buildings and a snack cart.  This could easily be the community college parking lot if you didn’t know where you are.  Once you start walking you come upon two churches – one old and one really old.  If you look closely, you will find a random, misplaced Lenin head back from the old days of Soviet occupation. 

 

There are several mounds as you walk towards the Neris river (which also runs through Vilnius), and through them is a foot-path.  Once you clear the hills, there is a small stretch of flat land before you hit the river.  The fields are covered in patches of these violet-colored heather type flowers and they create a lovely effect as they undulate with the breeze. 

 

The river at this point is very wide but, at least today, it was fairly quiet and slow.  You could easily lose yourself in centuries old contemplation on these river banks.  In the US it is very difficult to find places so unspoiled and undisturbed by the white noise of traffic, airplanes and the like.  This is a special place and if you listen it will tell you lots of ancient stories.